Fish in the Desert: The Unexpected Seafood Culture of Essaouira

When travelers dream of Moroccan food, they envision mountains of slow-cooked lamb, sweet chicken Bastillas, and earthy vegetable couscous. Because much of the country’s famous cuisine originates from the inland imperial cities like Fes and Marrakech, the ocean is often forgotten.

But Morocco possesses over 2,000 miles of coastline along the Atlantic and the Mediterranean. And if you want to understand Moroccan seafood, you must travel to the windy, whitewashed city of Essaouira.

The Blue Boats of the Port

Walk down to the port of Essaouira in the late afternoon, and you will see a fleet of iconic, bright blue wooden fishing boats returning with the daily catch. The docks are chaotic, noisy, and absolutely brimming with sea bass, sardines, sole, massive spider crabs, and Atlantic squid.

Here, the culinary rules of the inland cities are thrown out the window. Seafood is not meant to be hidden beneath heavy, sweet spices like cinnamon or raisins. The cooking is fast, aggressive, and incredibly fresh.

The Seafood Stalls

Just outside the port, dozens of open-air grills are set up. You do not order from a menu. You walk up to the ice beds, point to the fish you want, and watch as it is immediately scaled and thrown onto the blazing charcoal.

The seasoning is beautifully minimalist. The fish is often just rubbed with coarse salt, or heavily brushed with a sharp Chermoula—a zesty, pungent marinade of fresh coriander, garlic, cumin, paprika, and fresh lemon juice.

It is served steaming hot on a simple metal plate, accompanied only by a classic Moroccan tomato and onion salad and a wedge of crusty bread. In Essaouira, the ocean is the chef, and the spices simply get out of the way.