The Souk Al-Attarine: A Guide to the Spice Markets of Fes

If you walk deep enough into the labyrinth of the Fes medina, you will eventually close your eyes and let your nose guide you. You have arrived at the Souk Al-Attarine, the historic market of the perfume and spice merchants.

Established in the 13th century, this narrow, covered street is a sensory overload. Sacks of raw spices are piled high like colorful pyramids, emitting the heavy scent of cumin, the sharpness of ginger, and the floral notes of dried rosebuds.

The Apothecary’s Craft

The men who run these stalls are not just merchants; they are apothecaries (Attar). In Moroccan culture, food and medicine are deeply intertwined. A local will not just go to the Attar for a pound of black pepper; they will go to him to cure a stomach ache, to soothe a newborn’s colic, or to buy the perfect incense for a new home.

How to Buy Spices Like a Local

If you are visiting the Souk Al-Attarine, here are the unwritten rules of buying spices:

1. Never buy ground spices blindly. The best merchants will display the spices in their whole, unground form (whole nutmeg, cinnamon bark, dried ginger root). You select the raw ingredients, and the merchant will grind them into a powder right in front of you. This guarantees absolute freshness and zero fillers.
2. Ask for Ras el Hanout. This is the ultimate test of an Attar. Ras el Hanout translates to “Head of the Shop,” meaning it is the absolute best blend the merchant has to offer. Some blends contain up to 40 different spices, including rare ingredients like grains of paradise, mace, and dried iris root. No two shops have the same recipe.
3. Respect the Barter. Negotiating is expected, but it must be done with a smile and a glass of tea. It is not an argument; it is a conversation to establish mutual respect.

The Souk Al-Attarine is not a tourist attraction; it is the beating heart of Moroccan gastronomy, providing the colors and flavors for millions of tajines across the Kingdom.